This gem of the Western Highlands of Scotland, with its abundance of wildlife and scenery, set between the mainland mountain masses of Scotland and the Isle of Skye, offers visitors the peace and tranquillity of a true Highland holiday. Home to just a couple of hundred people, and accessed by only two roads, the Bealach na Ba pass road from the south and the coast road from the North, it is a haven from the noise and clutter of modern life.
However, it is not the easiest place to get to but you'll never forget the journey, especially if you come over the Bealach na Ba pass, an historic and quite famous route through the mountains of the Applecross peninsula. The warning sign at the start says that this road is not suitable for learner drivers, caravans and very large vehicles so crossing it is an adventure, not for the larger motorhome or those of a nervous disposition. This single-track road has some Alpine-like hairpin bends, and passing places which seem to hang over the edge of the mountain in mid air. The biggest problem however is trying to keep your eyes focussed on the road and not on the breathtaking scenery especially on the descent. The pass is 11.4 miles long and rises to 2,053ft. Starting at sea level you rise slowly until you enter the last leg with 20% gradients and hairpin bends. Stop at the parking area at the top and you'll enjoy wonderful panoramas to the Outer Hebrides and the mountains to the south. The coast route from the north is much longer at 25 miles, still single track, but without the steep gradients and hairpin bends. It starts at Shieldaig and a visit to Nanny's tea room to enjoy one of their famous local sea food dishes, or home made cakes, is a must before you start out.
We decided to stay awhile at the Visit Applecross campsite a mere 5 minutes walk from the Visitor Centre, Pub and Bay area. It has room for sixty tents, motorhomes and touring caravans, several glamping huts and static caravans for rent. There are two-fully functional hot water shower blocks, (one brand new this year), a laundry room with a washing machine, tumble dryer and a payphone, electric hook-up points. It is best to book well in advance!
As well as just soaking up the peace and quiet we enjoyed walks in the hills behind the campsite and along the bay, stopping off at the Applecross Photographic Gallery to bag a souvenir. A picnic on the beach, lunch at the Walled Garden Cafe with the wonderful flower garden and vegetable production area, and a visit to the Heritage Centre where I learnt how to spin wool on a traditional spinning wheel. A visit to the pub is a must, booking is essential if you want a meal as it is extremely busy at all times.
We were up and on the road by 9am on the morning of our departure to drive down the pass on a very short journey south to Plockton, near Kyle of Lochalsh, and then over the 'Bridge to Skye'. The journey was unusually quiet. When we got to the bottom we realised why. The road to Kyle of Lochalsh was closed for repair and the only way to get to Skye was to make a detour via Inverness, approximately 120 miles along mainly single-track roads. Needless to say we changed our plans and gave Skye a miss. We hope to go back sometime and spend more time in the area exploring Loch Carron, Torridon and Shieldaig and, of course, Skye!